The Directory
Designers
From heritage houses to Central Saint Martins graduates — the creative directors shaping the season.
01
Phoebe Philo
Phoebe Philo
Based
London
Est.
2023
Cult minimalism from the former Céline creative director. Direct-to-consumer luxury in edited drops.
02
Burberry
Daniel Lee
Based
London
Est.
1856
Chief creative at Burberry since 2022, returning the house to its British heritage roots.
03
Chanel
Matthieu Blazy
Based
Paris
Est.
1910
Following his transformative tenure at Bottega Veneta, Blazy now leads the world's most watched house.
04
Dior
Jonathan Anderson
Based
Paris
Est.
1946
The Northern Irish polymath now helms both Dior mens and womens after a decade at Loewe.
05
Prada
Miuccia Prada & Raf Simons
Based
Milan
Est.
1913
Two of fashion's most singular minds in a rare co-creative partnership.
06
Gucci
Sabato De Sarno
Based
Milan
Est.
1921
Quiet luxury for the Italian house, rooted in Roman minimalism.
07
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize
Based
Lagos
Est.
2013
LVMH Prize finalist known for reinventing Nigerian handwoven Aso Oke textiles.
08
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha
Based
London
Est.
2010
Romantic tailoring and darkly feminine silhouettes, staged at Central Saint Martins.
09
Cecilie Bahnsen
Cecilie Bahnsen
Based
Copenhagen
Est.
2015
Voluminous, sculptural dresses that made Copenhagen a serious fashion capital.
10
Sacai
Chitose Abe
Based
Tokyo
Est.
1999
Hybrid design pioneer whose spliced silhouettes reshaped contemporary sportswear.
11
Kimhekim
Kim Hae Kim
Based
Seoul / Paris
Est.
2014
Balletic, avant-garde tailoring shown on both the Seoul and Paris schedules.
12
Uma Wang
Uma Wang
Based
Shanghai
Est.
2005
Textile-led, painterly collections that anchor Shanghai's international standing.
13
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello
Based
Paris
Est.
1961
Sharp Parisian sensuality and razor tailoring for the house of Yves Saint Laurent.
14
Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière
Based
Paris
Est.
1854
Futurist silhouettes and technical romance across a decade at Vuitton's womenswear.
15
Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli
Based
Paris
Est.
1919
Couture humanism and colour theory brought to Cristóbal's house of volume.
16
Hermès
Nadège Vanhee
Based
Paris
Est.
1837
Quiet leather-led luxury built on the maison's saddlery craft.
17
Celine
Michael Rider
Based
Paris
Est.
1945
A return to studied Parisian wardrobe dressing after years at Polo Ralph Lauren.
18
Rabanne
Julien Dossena
Based
Paris
Est.
1966
Chainmail modernity and Space Age references reworked for the club.
19
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing
Based
Paris
Est.
1945
Glamour maximalism and structured shoulders for a global celebrity audience.
20
Rick Owens
Rick Owens
Based
Paris
Est.
1994
Brutalist drape and monumental staging on the Palais de Tokyo steps.
21
Maison Margiela
Glenn Martens
Based
Paris
Est.
1988
The Belgian designer now leads Margiela alongside his work at Diesel.
22
Marine Serre
Marine Serre
Based
Paris
Est.
2017
Crescent-moon regeneration: upcycled textiles as a core design method.
23
Vetements
Guram Gvasalia
Based
Paris
Est.
2014
Oversized proportion and subcultural irony from the Georgian-founded label.
24
Gucci
Demna
Based
Zurich
Est.
1921
The provocateur behind Balenciaga's rebirth, now artistic director at Gucci.
25
Charles de Vilmorin
Charles de Vilmorin
Based
Paris
Est.
2020
Painterly couture in saturated colour from one of Paris's youngest names.
26
Pigalle
Stéphane Ashpool
Based
Paris
Est.
2008
Basketball courts, Parisian street culture and sportswear tailoring.
27
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi
Based
Rome
Est.
1925
Third-generation Fendi, guardian of the house's fur, leather and Baguette legacy.
28
Bottega Veneta
Louise Trotter
Based
Milan
Est.
1966
British designer bringing restraint and craft focus to the Veneto house.
29
Dolce&Gabbana
Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana
Based
Milan
Est.
1985
Sicilian iconography, corsetry and Italian family mythology.
30
Max Mara
Ian Griffiths
Based
Milan
Est.
1951
The camel coat as an intellectual project — three decades of Max Mara tailoring.
31
Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis
Based
London
Est.
1927
Caribbean-British modernism revitalising the Florentine shoe house.
32
Missoni
Angela Missoni
Based
Sumirago
Est.
1953
Custodian of the family's zigzag knitwear language.
33
Marni
Francesco Risso
Based
Milan
Est.
1994
Handmade chaos, artist collaborations and colour-clashed craft.
34
Jil Sander
Simone Bellotti
Based
Milan
Est.
1968
Minimalism with an Italian hand after years inside Gucci's studio.
35
Erdem
Erdem Moralıoğlu
Based
London
Est.
2005
Historical narrative dressing in florals, lace and archive-led prints.
36
Roksanda
Roksanda Ilinčić
Based
London
Est.
2005
Colour-blocked sculptural dressing from the Serbian-British designer.
37
Richard Quinn
Richard Quinn
Based
London
Est.
2016
Recipient of the first Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design.
38
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner
Based
London
Est.
2014
Afro-Atlantic scholarship and refined menswear tailoring.
39
Martine Rose
Martine Rose
Based
London
Est.
2007
British subculture, rave nostalgia and skewed menswear proportion.
40
Ahluwalia
Priya Ahluwalia
Based
London
Est.
2018
Indian-Nigerian heritage told through vintage and deadstock textiles.
41
Harris Reed
Harris Reed
Based
London
Est.
2020
Fluid demi-couture and theatrical gender-expansive design.
42
Molly Goddard
Molly Goddard
Based
London
Est.
2014
Voluminous smocked tulle that turned a London studio into a global signature.
43
Emilia Wickstead
Emilia Wickstead
Based
London
Est.
2008
Precision-cut daywear favoured by a discreet international clientele.
44
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Based
New York
Est.
1984
Four decades of American provocation, staged in single-note spectacle shows.
45
Thom Browne
Thom Browne
Based
New York
Est.
2001
Grey suiting as uniform, performance and surrealist theatre.
46
Khaite
Catherine Holstein
Based
New York
Est.
2016
Modern American luxury built on leather, cashmere and confident cut.
47
Michael Kors Collection
Michael Kors
Based
New York
Est.
1981
Jet-set American sportswear and easy uptown glamour.
48
Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra
Based
New York
Est.
2008
French-American sensuality with a strong tailoring backbone.
49
Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson
Based
New York
Est.
1998
Artisanal craft, hand-loomed textiles and bohemian romance.
50
LaQuan Smith
LaQuan Smith
Based
New York
Est.
2013
Body-conscious Queens-born glamour dressing the night.
51
Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano
Based
New York
Est.
2008
Red-carpet couture with an early and consistent commitment to size inclusivity.
52
Luar
Raul Lopez
Based
New York
Est.
2011
Dominican-American Brooklyn label blending club culture and sharp tailoring.
53
Sandy Liang
Sandy Liang
Based
New York
Est.
2014
Lower East Side nostalgia, fleece and a devoted downtown following.
54
Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria
Based
New York
Est.
2015
Chicano identity and dignity-first menswear at monumental scale.
55
Ganni
Ditte Reffstrup
Based
Copenhagen
Est.
2000
Scandi joy, responsible sourcing and the global 'Ganni girl' vernacular.
56
Saks Potts
Barbara Potts & Cathrine Saks
Based
Copenhagen
Est.
2013
Playful Danish glamour that made Copenhagen a headline week.
57
Peter Do
Peter Do
Based
New York
Est.
2018
Vietnamese-American precision cutting in the Phoebe Philo lineage.
58
Stefan Cooke
Stefan Cooke
Based
London
Est.
2017
Trompe l'oeil knitwear and craft-obsessed British menswear.
59
William Fan
William Fan
Based
Berlin
Est.
2015
Genderless German-Chinese wardrobe design in soft, restrained palettes.
60
GmbH
Serhat Işık & Benjamin Huseby
Based
Berlin
Est.
2016
Berlin techno, diaspora identity and utilitarian tailoring.
61
Marina Hoermanseder
Marina Hoermanseder
Based
Berlin
Est.
2013
Orthopaedic-inspired leather buckling and Austrian craft.
62
Lisa Folawiyo
Lisa Folawiyo
Based
Lagos
Est.
2005
Hand-embellished Ankara that reframed West African print for luxury retail.
63
Thebe Magugu
Thebe Magugu
Based
Johannesburg / Paris
Est.
2016
LVMH Prize winner archiving South African social history in garment form.
64
ABCB
Amine Bendriouich
Based
Marrakech / Berlin
Est.
2010
Moroccan tailoring and desert utility with a Berlin edge.
65
Rami Al Ali
Rami Al Ali
Based
Dubai
Est.
2001
Syrian couturier and the first Arab designer on the Paris haute couture calendar.
66
Michael Cinco
Michael Cinco
Based
Dubai
Est.
2003
Filipino-Emirati couture built on crystal embroidery and cinematic volume.
67
Andrea Iyamah
Dumebi Iyamah
Based
Lagos
Est.
2011
Resortwear and swim rooted in West African colour and silhouette.
68
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo
Based
Tokyo / Paris
Est.
1969
The most influential conceptual designer of the modern era.
69
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto
Based
Tokyo
Est.
1981
Black, asymmetry and anti-fashion poetics since the Paris debut of 1981.
70
Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe
Based
Tokyo
Est.
1992
Technical pattern-cutting experiments under the Comme des Garçons umbrella.
71
Anrealage
Kunihiko Morinaga
Based
Tokyo
Est.
2003
Light-reactive materials and technological illusion on the Paris schedule.
72
Ulkin
Jung Hye-jin
Based
Seoul
Est.
2014
Upcycled leather and Korean sustainable design leadership.
73
Andersson Bell
Andersson Bell
Based
Seoul
Est.
2014
Korean-Scandinavian collaboration in contemporary unisex design.
74
Shushu/Tong
Liushu Lei & Yutong Jiang
Based
Shanghai
Est.
2015
Chinese girlhood iconography rendered in precise, doll-like tailoring.
75
Xu Zhi
Xu Zhi
Based
Shanghai
Est.
2014
Braided yarn techniques and craft-forward Chinese contemporary design.
76
Aje
Edwina Forest & Adrian Norris
Based
Sydney
Est.
2008
Australian coastal romance and sculptural resort dressing.
77
Zimmermann
Nicky & Simone Zimmermann
Based
Sydney
Est.
1991
Australian swim and resort turned global luxury house.
78
Johanna Ortiz
Johanna Ortiz
Based
Cali, Colombia
Est.
2002
Latin American femininity, ruffles and tropical print on the global stage.
79
Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst
Based
New York
Est.
2015
Uruguayan-born pioneer of traceable, low-waste luxury.
80
Pedro Lourenço
Pedro Lourenço
Based
São Paulo / Paris
Est.
2010
Brazilian precision minimalism from a designer who debuted at fourteen.